Leeds Through the Eyes of Coffee

Kapow Leeds

Kapow, Thornton’s Arcade Leeds

LATTES FOR THE LEFTIES

It remains a mystery when the first coffeehouse was opened in Leeds. Although coffeehouses in Leeds garnered caffeinated fame in the 19th century, there is evidence to show they existed as early as the 18th century, if not earlier. A playbill from 1795 references an 19th century coffeehouse known as the ‘Theatre Coffee House’. The Secret Library Leeds has recently discovered that Leeds welcomed its first Espresso Coffee Bar in 1954. It would be a shame to not recall that 1954 was also the year where the anti-communist Senator, Joseph McCarthy was censored by the US senate, bringing an end to his communist witch hunt. Today, as you walk around the Parkinson Building, the Greek Revival style hallmark belonging to the University of Leeds, you may notice some vibrant crimson flyers. Sometimes they prompt the passerby to question whether socialism is possible. Sometimes they invite lefties to join a revolutionary reading of Freire’s Pedagogy of the Oppressed. The venue? Hyde Park Book Club. Hidden away in a corner of Headingly Lane, you may almost miss this little red coffeehouse. Hyde Park Book Club is reminiscent of stepping into something like the Summer of Love, the hippie movement of the 1967s. Here, you can enjoy a freshly brewed latte while absorbing the 60s inspired decor. Plant lovers looking for a caffeine fix can also buy a plant on their way out or simply enjoy the botanical atmosphere inside. It would be misleading to characterise Hyde Park Book Club as a left-only space. The coffeehouse has hosted discussions such as ‘Is Capitalism doomed to fail?’ For any brave bourgeoisies, this may be your moment to shine. As long as you realise this isn’t everyone’s cup of tea – Leeds is a Labour city. In fact, Keir Starmer, the current leader of the Labour Party read law at the University of Leeds. There is nothing unusual about Hyde Park Book Club’s caffeinated debates. After all, the French Revolution started in a coffeehouse.

THIRD WAVE COFFEE IN LEEDS  

A stroll into Leeds City Centre will lead you to the clothing store ‘Jigsaw’. Here once stood Collinsons Café, which opened in the 1907 and became an important caffeinated venue for sixty years, according to the Secret Library Leeds. It has also discovered a lesser known fact. Wallace Hartley, the bandleader of the RMS Titanic frequently performed at the Collinsons Café in Leeds. After the titanic sank in 1912, Hartley’s body was discovered and inside his pocket sat a silver matchbox with the engraving “From Collinson’s Staff, Leeds.” Today, Leeds is a notable participant of Third Wave Coffee, a movement that values improving brewing methods for speciality coffee. The first third wave coffee shop in Leeds is known to be Opposite Coffee, which opened in 2005. Its name bears no riddle. It is opposite the University of Leeds.

In the last two decades, Leeds has flourished with more independent coffee shops. Upon commuters stepping out of Leeds railway station, they are greeted by a cosy espresso bar ‘Laynes Espresso’. This was ranked number two amongst fifty of the best coffee shops in the whole of England by Big Seven Travel. A relatively newcomer to the caffeine scene, Laynes only opened its doors in 2011. Founder, Dave Olejnik decided to brew his caffeinated dream into reality at age 31. A guitar technician in his early twenties, Olejnik had sipped espressos from around the globe in places such as Melbourne, Seattle, Chicago and New York. However, Leeds always occupied a special place in his heart. Olejnik started calling Leeds home when he moved to the city in his early twenties. When it came to choosing a location to open his coffee bar, Olejnik’s nostalgia for Leeds made it the obvious choice. Olejnik believes that Leeds inspires passion projects to come alive. Speaking to ‘Welcome to Leeds’, he says that “People are putting their heart and soul into places here.” A few more footsteps into the City Centre will prove that he does not exaggerate. The crowds lining outside Mrs Atha’s are a testament to that. A small independent coffee shop with wooden floors and an intimate set-up, this is a popular venue for those who want to wake up and smell the coffee along with the buttery pancakes.

It may seem that the City was made for Coffee. If Diagon Alley belongs to the Wizardly World of Harry Potter, then Thornon’s Arcade is a more stylish refurbishment. Like Olivanders Wand Shop, Kapow Coffee is almost hidden away unless you know where to look for the magic. In Olivanders, “The wand chooses the wizard.” In Kapow, the coffee chooses the connoisseur. Indeed, as you step into this magical place, to your right is a huge selection of speciality coffee bags consisting of single origins and vibrant blends. The comic-store style interior brightens up the place which is conveniently located a few blocks away from OK Comics. Members of the coffee industry have a dramatic way of stigmatising decaf. Yet, developments in processing methods have resulted in some decaf beans having more tasty flavour profiles than caffeinated ones. Sometimes even Q-Graders, professional coffee tasters, cannot differentiate the decaf coffee from the caffeinated one in a blind cupping session. Those still skeptical may find their prejudice humbled by Kapow’s Colombian decaf coffee. With tasting notes like Cocoa, Guava and Honey, you may even wonder whether coffee was supposed to be drunk decaf. Maybe that is taking it too far.

92 Degrees, Claypit Lane Leeds

As you walk away from the central cafes, what looks like a little brick house rests upon Claypit lane. From the window, a friendly, 92° sign with a mischievous stuck-out tongue smiley lights up a welcome for visitors. A student favourite, this coffeehouse attracts a stream of regular customer who may actually view this as their second home. This could be due to the cosy artificial fireplace and maroon sofa set that make you feel like you are sipping high quality coffee from your living room. The 10% student discount and £20 a month coffee subscription for your five a day coffees may also explain the customer attachment. Most recently, the founder of 92 Degrees, Jack Brewitt celebrated his grandfather’s 92nd birthday at one of the chains, holding up two giant 92 digit helium balloons with the caption, “92 at 92 degrees.” If that is not heart-warming enough, you should also know that 92 Degrees is a Living Wage Employer. This means that it does not pay its staff anything below what the Living Wage Foundation independently sets as the living wage, which can be higher than the government required minimum as it takes into account the actual cost of living. 92 Degrees is also partnered with Project Waterfall, a charity that works with the coffee industry to end the water crisis. For every bag of coffee purchased, 10% of the revenue goes to the charity.

As you circle back towards the Parkinson Building, opposite the steps is a miniature hut called RAND Coffee Roastery. Coffee aficionados will be happy to discover that the coffee chain has its own roastery. The freshly roasted coffee beans grinded on the counter create an aroma that is difficult to resist. The walls are adorned with intricate artwork, showcasing the Coffea arabica plant in a beautiful watercolour form. This is also one of the few coffeehouses to brew authentic Turkish coffee. One of the earliest methods of brewing coffee, Turkish coffee grinds are much finer than espresso. On your way out you can also purchase a selection of Mr Rand’s coffee bags and merchandise.

Since we began this journey near Hyde Park, artistic expression calls for us to end it here too. As you step into the heart of Woodhouse Moor (colloquially referred to as Hyde Park), the waxing crescent-like logo of Coffee on the Crescent becomes visible. Founded by former English cricket player, Timothy Linley, Coffee on the Crescent symbolises the enthusiasm through which the third wave coffee movement continues to be propelled. The giant Coffee Taster’s Flavour Wheel on the wall reminds you that a good cup of coffee can be naturally sweet like brown sugar, taste like forest fruits or have unique floral undertones to it. Woodhouse Moor once hosted the largest Suffragette rally in Northern England, with thousands of women holding protest signs that read “Votes for Women.” Given that women were once restricted from coffeehouses in England, today we can sip a latte in a Woodhouse Moor-based coffeehouse without having to smash a window in protest first.

Seeing Leeds through the eyes of coffee shows us how independent businesses truly are the soul of the city. If you want to be part of Third Wave Coffee, you may find that there is no cosier home than Leeds.

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Plagues and Prescriptions: Medicinal Uses of Coffee Throughout Time

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South Indian Filter Coffee, Colonialism and Caste Oppression